The leftovers of a blind wine tasting pitting Virginia against the world (consisting mostly of France and the west coast of the U.S.). So many things wrong with this effort, but way too much fun not to have tried. If you’re curious who won, so am I! Somehow the night dissolved into a table full of aged Burgundy and spilled Riesling (not pictured).
When you’re passionate about a topic, but also want to maintain your seriousness, it’s a bit hard to sometimes buy things that are related to the subject. You don’t want to come off too much like an equivalent of a crazy cat lady. In the wine world anything outside of a bottle of wine or its necessary accessories (and sometimes an insider-y t-shirt) can sometimes fall into that borderline kitschy, if not all the way kitschy, category. But every now and then, something comes along and perks me up. Today was one of those days, thanks to grapefriend.
For example, this tote-bag, includes an interior pocket to hold your wine upright and a key chain which Olive & Poppy suggests using as a “corkscrew keeper.” The site claims it’s “the perfect size to take to the farmer’s market or to stuff with cheese, bread and a blanket.” Yes, please.
But what I’ve really fallen in love with, are these terroir necklaces that include little oval plates with maps of some popular California terroirs. My favorite is the Sonoma/Carneros map, since Carneros was the first AVA my budding palate was able to quickly identify. And well, who doesn’t love Sonoma?
To see more from Olive and Poppy, whose entire line of products focuses on California wine country, check out their website. They even sell gift certificates, in case you know someone who might like to purchase something (hint, hint).
Given the general public’s recent infatuation with the profession, it’s safe to say we’ve officially transitioned from the age of the stuffy sommelier to that of the casually hip “somm.” An exchange that once involved a highly formalized set of rituals (pour for the man to taste first, never leave the bottle on the table) now takes place amid the blare of rock music in wine-centric restaurants like Manhattan’s Pearl & Ash or Racines NY, where rather than wax poetic about Latour or Lafite, your somm will likely evangelize about the sherry renaissance or recommend some offbeat natural wine from the Loire.
It’s a great summary of the renaissance happening in the wine world. And it’s certainly the energy I’ve been feeding off of in my own discoveries these past few years. But I have to wonder if Zachary Sussman is suggesting that the less “stuffy” and more “casually hip” state of the industry is a reason for the rise in more women entering the field? It’s probably made it easier. But even if being a sommelier was still quite a formal profession – in today’s modern environment – would a lot of woman still be shut out?
I don’t have an answer. Just something to think about.
If I don’t have rosé in my glass this summer, and you spy me sipping something white, it’s probably the Sandlands Chenin Blanc. That’s why I was thrilled to see Eric Asimov’s column today and the nice mention and quote from Sandlands owner/winemaker Tegan Passalacqua.
I’m still getting to know the grape and reading Asimov’s story gave me a great introduction while also talking about its resurgence here in the U.S.
Chenin blanc, the white grape of the central Loire Valley, is one of those grapes achieving new life in the United States. Once widely planted in California, it had largely disappeared from fine wine regions by 2000. In the last few years, though, at least a dozen California producers have started making chenin blancs, joining a handful who never stopped, along with producers in Oregon and New York.
Because of its great acidity, chenin blanc is a grape able to make wines bone dry or unctuously sweet yet fresh, with an entire spectrum in between. It has the ability to transparently display its place of origin, to age for decades and to tantalize not just with complex aromas and flavors but with a seemingly paradoxical texture that can be thick yet delicate, rich yet light.
Most of what I’ve learned in the past year has come from the advocacy of Pascaline Lepeltier, the wine director at Rouge Tomate in New York, who gets a nice shout-out at the end of the column. It’s exciting to see that she’s working on her own project:
She has her own chenin blanc project: a plan to plant a few vines in the Finger Lakes of New York in partnership with Bloomer Creek Vineyard.
We’re so far into summer right now that people are already talking about how it’s almost over (la la la I can’t hear them la la la). So I don’t have to tell anybody paying attention to wine that the past few months have been all about drinking pink. The public’s thirst for delicious dry rosé has increased immensely over the past few years. And that’s a good thing!
(Some of my favorite rosé wines/ Photo by me)
On a hot summer day by the pool, or at a warm evening BBQ, the mix of fruit and crispness found inside a glass of rosé is the kind of quencher that people of all palates can easily agree upon. Stir that with social media and you now have hashtags like #yeswayrosé, #roséalldamnday and for the millenial men too cool to admit their preference, there’s even #brose.
But have we gone too far? Just as the stigma for drinking pink wines is finally wearing off, is a new one forming that could scare away the serious wine drinker? I don’t think so – but here are a few examples of the budding culture (cult, perhaps?) pushing its way through the summer season:
Two girls from Brooklyn have turned #yeswayrosé into a lifestyle brand – touting t-shirts, nail polish and keychains.
And lest you think only women are the target of such trends, 2015 has brought us the summer of brosé. Details Magazine helped spell things out in June with this profile.
Like his counterpart, the much-discussed female whiskey drinker, the rosé bro is inaugurating a freer, more egalitarian world of gender-fluid beverage consumption.
Rosé is the ultimate guy drink. It’s dry, it’s unpretentious, it goes with everything: it’s like beer without the constant trips to the bathroom. It’s the perfect drink for any laid-back dude. Next time you see a group of bros dispensing with the Bud Lights and opting instead for a bottle of something pink and Provençal, your only job is to go find yourself a glass. They know exactly what they’re doing.
As I asked earlier, what does this mean for the serious wine drinker? In my opinion, it’s a good thing. It’s a chance to convince my non-wine-drinking friends to imbibe, and a perfect reminder that wine has a light-hearted fun side that’s absolutely perfect for summer.
I once took an hour-long Riedel wine tasting class, which gave us an opportunity to taste the same wine in different-shaped glasses.
Comparative wine tasting class sponsored by Riedel, March 2013. Note the empty “joker” glass which allowed us to hold wine in there while transferring some of the wines to other glasses. / Photo by itswinebyme
From that moment on, I was convinced that proper stemware was crucial to getting the most out of a wine. I filled my own cabinet with Riedel glasses in four different shapes and Crate and Barrel knock-offs of Zalto glasses. (In a perfect world, I’d just have Zaltos. The delicate but sturdy stems are enough to make me swoon.)
But every now and then I’ll stray. I have some vintage rose-color upside-down cone shape champagne glasses, which I discovered shows off the crispness and acidity of dry rosé beautifully. Yet it’s probably not the perfect glass since its shape lets the aromas escape. For me, the fun in drinking from them over takes that: If looking through rose-color glasses provides a wonderful view of the world, shouldn’t drinking from them let you get a wonderful taste of the world, too?
Tasting rosé through vintage rose-color glasses I found at Rachel Ashwell’s Shabby Chic store in SoHo | Photo by itswinebyme
Today, I’ve discovered a different kind of glass in my cabinet and it’s making for a lovely sipping vessel on a lazy Sunday afternoon. Drinking from small juice glasses may be traditional in Italy, but something never felt right about doing that here. I tried once and the thickness of the lip made for an awful experience. But as I was putting away some glasses and reaching for a white wine glass to drink some leftover Chenin Blanc, I came upon these pretty little juice glasses a friend brought back from her trip to the Corning Museum in New York. The design is reminiscent of fiddleheads or perhaps some green peas or grass.
The Sandlands Chenin Blanc, which on some level tastes like tart apple juice, held its own inside this Corning “fiddlehead” juice glass. |Photo by itswinebyme
As I poured the wine, something just felt right. Besides helping with portion control – which is smart for a Sunday afternoon when there are still chores to be done – I found myself sipping a little slower out of it. The tart fruit and acid of the wine held up just as well as when I tasted it the day before in a traditional wine glass. And just like using the vintage champagne glasses for rosé, it brought me pure joy.
When I took WSET claseses late last year, one of my goals was to finally learn how to communicate more effectively about wine. And while I certainly advanced my knowledge, I realized I still had a long way to go. So, it’s a nice validation to see The New Yorkertackle this topic.
Click on the link at the top of this post (or just click here) to read what I wrote to our NPR readers about the piece.
I really enjoy introducing more people to wine-related ideas and information, so I’m a wee-bit giddy I expanded my reach this afternoon.
It’s more back-and-forth pointed mostly at the In Pursuit of Balance (IPOB) movement. But I found it interesting because it provides insight into Sean Thackrey’s out-spoken personality.
In Down with Wine Dogma, Thackrey calls adhering to certain rules, like creating lower-alcoholic wines, a fad similar to what you find in the fashion world. He writes:
So what’s the point of dogma in all this? Since no one disputes that excellent wine can be made from grapes comparatively lower in sugar, what is the point of arguing that this is so, when no one argues the contrary? Methinks someone’s marketing guru doth protest too much.
If what you’re making really is all that delicious, there’s no need to demonstrate the limitations of your palate by claiming that all wines made with one or two percent more alcohol content are undrinkable; this is too perfectly stupid for comment. Pour what you’ve actually made as wine, so that we can all see how it—rather than your PR bling (i.e., we’re all about subtlety and intellectual complexity and general all-around Frenchness)—actually tastes in the glass.
Food & Wine also published a Q&A with Thackrey where Ray Isle asked him specifically about his descriptive wine label:
You’re not a guy who’s short on opinions. The label on your red wine Pleiades says that its purpose is to “delight the jaded and irritate the Wine Police…” Who are the “wine police”?
Anyone who puts restrictions on what you’re supposed to be able to enjoy. Like the idea that if a wine is 15 percent alcohol, it’s undrinkable—it’s hot, overextracted, raw, a fruit bomb, doesn’t show any subtlety, isn’t French and so on. Give me a break! Just taste it first, OK? People with those kinds of absolute preconceptions, they’re part of the wine police.
What it all comes down to – on both sides of the IPOB-debate – is making good wine that people want to enjoy. But how do you get your brand out there ahead of the others? The IPOB winemakers are using each other to propel their wines, while Thackrey is using his blunt label-writing, his non-conformist attitudes and his opportunity to have his story told in Food & Wine. They’re both marketing methods, right?!
For a bit more about Sean Thackrey, I discovered this short video while Googling.
I appreciate when a winemaker can be serious without being pretentious. And it’s even better when the bottle lives up to the promise on the label. While just an infant wine, the high acid, bursts of red fruit and evolution in the glass, made this
Sean Thackrey Pleiades XXIV Old Vines California Red Blend such a pleasure to drink last night:
The object of Pleiades Old Vines is to be delicious, delight the jaded, irritate the Wine Police, and generally go well with anything red wine goes well with. This twenty-fourth edition, bottled in April of 2015, includes Sangiovese, Viognier, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, and Mourvedre, to name but a few. Fragrant and voluptuous when first released, it will become far more subtle and complex with age, as of course we will: but such restraint may just be too much to ask…
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