Money may win auctions, but it can’t buy the palate required to differentiate between a 1947 Chateau Petrus and a lesser Bordeaux dosed with California cabernet to mimic the age and roundness of a legendary vintage. Put another way: If an imposter bottle is poured and enjoyed while still conferring all the attendant status on its owner, who’s in a position to complain?
Bloomberg has a good story today about counterfeit wine. For those who have been following the issues since the Rudy K. case, or even before, this won’t be new to you. But for those coming fresh to the story or only know a few of the headlines, it’s nicely done. The piece, written by journalist Mark Ellwood, explains Bill Koch’s crusade, the increasing demand from China, and a nice bit of science and technology on how the experts can flush out the fakes. There’s even a look at what wineries are doing to tamper proof their bottles.