How To Quench Your Thirst From Someone Else’s Hunger

When I first learned about Cathy Huyghe’s new book, I immediately perked up: Finally, someone is putting into words what I’ve been trying to define via this site, or my Twitter and Instagram feeds: How can you properly communicate that intense yearning to follow everything wine (and are there others like me?)? She succeeds at that by sharing the stories of the people behind 12 bottles of wine. It’s their own desires deep inside their souls driving their pursuit. And it’s why “hungry” in the book’s title is such a wise word choice.

“It’s about being hungry for life and being hungry for the pleasure of it and to actually jump off the edge and go ahead enjoy it, and go ahead and give yourself permission to enjoy it,” Huyghe told me after she sent me an early copy of Hungry for Wine: Seeing the World Through the Lens of a Wine Glass.

image

 

So I jumped on the opportunity to review it at work. The editors at The Salt loved the idea!

Until now (except for a slight mention and a 2003 profile of a Maryland winery back when I barely knew the difference between Chardonnay and Cabernet),  I haven’t written about wine professionally. Finding the right wine voice outside of this site, while maintaining my objectivity as a journalist was challenging. It also meant I had to keep in mind what an NPR audience would connect with the most. As a result, the edited version of the post focused on some of Huyghe’s chapters that were pertinent to political and social issues as part of the news.

However, as an obsessed oenophile, I personally connected more to the emotional side of her writing – and much of the soul I had originally wanted to include in the story was either lost or left on the cutting room floor.

But thanks to the power and wonder of the digital age and multiple platforms, I can share more of my hour-long conversation with Huyghe right here!

Maybe by doing so, it will stir up your own hunger for wine!

On the meaning of being hungry for wine: 

“The ‘hungry’ of the title definitely means a lot of different things. It means being hungry from a passionate perspective. It means hungry literally, physically hungry, putting food on the table hungry. And it also means being hungry for the connection that wine is able to bring to all of us. When you open a bottle and you pour it in your glass and in the glass of the person sitting across from you or maybe the next person over, you’re connected. It’s an immediate connection and an immediate link between all of you.There’s a lot of room for that kind of sharing and that kind of linking together.”

On why she wrote the book:

“I want [the book] to be a launch pad, too, of conversations over the wine, but also about what it takes to bring the bottle to your table. And if those 12 chapters can be used as a launch pad to engage people and make wine closer to them and make it more relevant and something they can see relates to their everyday lives, than all the better, because that’s how I see wine and I really wanted this book to add to the conversation about wine in that way.”

“What I hope happens is that people will see wine as
something fun, something interesting, something worth celebrating, and that they’re also part of a very, very interrelated web and context and really thick beautiful luscious context … And so I hope that people
will find a couple entry points for themselves where they can say ‘Huh, I get that about this wine and that is how I’m going to think about it,
enjoy it or appreciate.’ “

On why she always asks ‘Who harvests your grapes?’: 

“That question of the labor force, it’s a door opener everywhere you go in the sense of ‘Let’s get this conversation started, and let’s see what’s happening here because obviously somebody has to harvest the grapes, so who is it for you?’ And it was in so many places that I asked it and visited, it is what opened the door to conversation. It opened the communication and it helped people understand that the wine writing that I want to do and that I do isn’t sort of the kind that’s focused on a tasting note … So that one question turned out to be an incredibly effective way to get to the deep end.”

(Note: You can also read the chapter that focuses on this question here.)

On being a wine writer: 

“The kind of writer that I am asks about the questions around
the glass a lot more than what’s in the glass. Rather than my focus being on sort of the pour or the color or the texture or the aromas – I love that, there’s a lot of value to it –  but for me, the broader conversations opens more pathways to getting to know the other people I’m with, or getting to know the bigger context for the existence of this wine. I guess that’s one way to think about it. I’m interested in how the wine got to be there maybe more than looking too closely at what it is when it is there.”

On the preciousness of wine:

“I think for a long time there’s been a sort of perception or an understanding of wine as something really precious and a lot of connotations to the wine. And even though that isn’t my interpretation of wine –  not that I don’t find wine precious, I do – but I think that there was just this idea that we had to really value wine to the extent that we had to elevate it and it represented this sort of higher lifestyle. What I would love to see, or what I try to see, is that wine is – it’s a way – it’s a vehicle for us not to commemorate those ideas of the Françoises* in our lives, but to celebrate them, to toast them, to honor them by actually opening the bottle.”

 

*Françoise is a woman mentioned in the first chapter of the book that can be best be described as a long-lost love who once brought  some memorable bottles to the main character of the chapter.

On the ever-changing nature of drinking wine:

“Not only every bottle, but every glass is going to be different. Every sip is going to be different depending on what you’re eating with it or who’s sitting across the table from you. Maybe somebody gives you some devastating news and then you’re like ‘Everything tastes like sour grapes!’ after that. Every time that you pour some wine or take a sip or open a bottle it’s going to be different and you’re going to be different every time. Because we change day to day, we change meal to meal because what you had for breakfast today is going to affect your tastes for what you drink later tonight and and same for me, so in a way we can’t have the same experience as the wine because we all have different taste buds – and to me that sort of openness and variability is part of the challenge. And part of the fun.”

It’s that exact challenge of never being able to duplicate your experience with a each glass of wine that drives my passion, too.

If You’re In The Berkeley Area and It’s Monday (or any other day), I Found The Perfect Place!

image

Word of advice: If you’re a serious wine lover, have a day in the Berkeley/Oakland area, and don’t want to go very far, make sure it’s not a Monday. I learned  that lesson the hard way. The last full day of my vacation after driving nearly 700 miles all over wine country (and even down to Monterey), I was determined to find something to do close to where I was staying for the last two days of my trip.

Fortunately, I found a fabulous place that should have been on the top of my list. But before I tell you about it, here are three places that could have made for a fun Monday (had they been open):

1) Broc Cellars. I haven’t tried Chris Brockway’s wines yet. But the little I know from the social media accounts of industry folks whose palates I respect (and this great Eric Asimov New York Times profile), not getting into this tasting room was heartbreaking. I discovered its location on a Sunday evening on my way back to my friend’s apartment from a beautiful visit to Stinson Beach. The painted square label – using its signature whimsical artwork – screamed out from the building’s corner location. Known for natural wines from non-conventional California grapes, I have no doubt this would have meant a fun and educational tasting.

2) Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. The famed wine importer’s retail outlet would have been the equivalent of wonderland for anyone interested in French and Italian wines. Or at least that’s how I would have hoped it would be. Since it’s difficult to know which are the best wines from far off wine regions, understanding the preferences of an importer becomes a wonderful guide in discovering new wines. And who better to to learn from than the most famous wine importer in the U.S. I only know Kermit Lynch by his multi-decade-long reputation of choosing terroir-driven wines, but it would have been a great lesson to really see which wines he recommends. 

3) Ordinaire Wine. This wine bar and shop seems to be among the newest darlings on the block – especially since it’s so focused on natural wines. If you haven’t guessed – these are a preference of mine, and was certainly a bit of a theme on this trip (my airplane reading included Alice Feiring’s Naked Wine and many of the wineries I was visiting believed in those core values). Ordinaire was also on my to-do list before I even stepped foot in California. I was convinced its existence was aligned perfectly with my own wine beliefs. Just look at the first ‘graph from their about page and you’ll see what I mean (emphasis via bolding is mine):

Our name refers to vin ordinarie, or “everyday wine,” which is wine that never makes it into bottle, but is kept back for the winemaker, close friends, and the local bistro. This is the point of the shop: using wine to transform our concept of the ordinary——to transform our concept of the possibility of the ordinary. L’ordinaire est possible!

But when I looked up its address, I was hit with the awful news, that they, too, are closed on Mondays!

Not completely discouraged about a lack of somewhere to visit, I discovered a cheese shop. If I can’t do wine for lunch, then cheese seems to be the next logical place. But just my luck… The Cheese Board Collective (ummm, hello! I didn’t even need to read much more to know this would send me to a happy place) closed at 1 p.m. on Mondays. It was already 12:15. Sigh.

So where did that photo at the top of this post come from? And where can you find a magnum of Hérve Souhaut and a bottle of Michael Cruse wine sitting on the counter opposite a tasting bar?

image

Welcome to Bay Grape! This wine shop lets you purchase a bottle and if you pay a $5 corkage, they will open it, and you can enjoy it there and even take home the leftovers (I know, I know – who has leftover wine? But when you’re responsible for driving yourself to your next destination, then limiting yourself to a single glass becomes the wise choice).

This is not just any wine shop. It’s a well curated boutique focused on many of the natural producers I’ve been following. In the dearth of Monday wine offerings, this not only became an oasis, it was probably the location that should have been on the top of my my list. 

It was clear right away that the owners – a husband and wife team who are serious about wine – are here to share their knowledge and favorite wines (there’s beer there, too), rather than just be a commercial retailer. Within minutes of looking through their shelves, I was finding many of my own favorite winemakers – three of whom I met on this trip: John Lockwood of Enfield Wine Co., “living legend” Cathy Corison and Hardy Wallace of Dirty & Rowdy. (This pic are bottles I snapped at the store.)  

image

Their bottle notes are to the point and offer easy guidance. And while there were many wines I recognized or have tasted before – there were just as many that were foreign to me. If only they could transplant the entire store to Washington, D.C., so I could sip my way through all their offerings.

But Bay Grape is not just wine! There’s a small refrigerated case featuring cheese (!!), charcuterie (!!) and a baguette that they will toast for you (!!). Toasted warm crunchy bread and creamy gooey cheese, with a flavorful salami – is there a more perfect lunch? I made myself a little picnic right on their tasting bar and it was heaven. One of the owners recommended a Domaine de La Grande Colline Le Canon Syrah, based on some simple parameters I gave him. It paired deliciously with the ash-ripened goat cheese, a wild boar salami and the baguette. As I commented on Delectable: “There’s a streak of something lively running up the front of the fruity palate. Candied strawberries mixed with pepper, too.” Have I mentioned yet that it was the perfect lunch?

image

The best part about noshing on all this – there were plenty of leftovers to share as a pre-dinner snack later that evening.  

Little did I know when I set out on my day that all those Monday closures would lead to the perfect Bay Grape adventure. And while I can’t wait to go back to the Berkeley/Oakland area on another day of the week to explore all the other options, I can guarantee this shop will still be at the top of my to-do list. 

From Syria To South Africa, A Passion For Wine Flows Bottle By Bottle

This was the bit of news I alluded to in an earlier post. Writer Cathy Huyghe gave me the opportunity to take a look at her book just as it was being published and my employer let me write about it.

Not only that, the kind editors of The Salt are open to some of my wine ideas, so while there’s nothing official… here’s hoping this will the first of many more wine-related pieces for them! 

And I’m declaring this moment, as yet another turn in my own wine journey.

From Syria To South Africa, A Passion For Wine Flows Bottle By Bottle